Travel Guide: Orcas Island, Washington
The San Juan Islands are in the Salish Sea off the Northwest coast of Washington State, not too far from the Canadian border. (I know this because my cell phone always thinks I’m in Canada when I’m visiting and then I spend the whole trip paranoid about roaming fees.) Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juan islands and a beloved destination for soaking in the natural beauty of the Northwest.
It’s become a summertime tradition of us to go up to Orcas for weddings and/or camping trips and these mini getaways are always some of my favorite trips of the year. If you like any combination of incredible water views, wine tasting, fresh seafood, laid-back island lifestyle, boats, sunsets, nature, a respite from busy city life… Orcas Island is going to be your heaven. (And if you seriously don’t like any combination of the aforementioned items, I’m shocked you’re still reading my blog?!)
This year (2020) was a little different given the Covid pandemic, but Orcas was a place I felt safe traveling and we were able to spend literally the entire time in outdoor areas, whether our campsite, well-distanced patios/lawns, parks, and beaches. Just about everything was open, business-wise, so still plenty of dining, drinking, and grocery shopping options. Don’t forget your mask (DUH. #science. Don’t get me started).
We always get to Orcas Island by ferry - check out the Washington State Ferry website for the latest schedule. I’ll be the first to admit that the website and its ferry scheduling system is clunky at best. Classic government website situation. But slog through it and plan your ferry in advance, especially in high season. All fares are roundtrip and you can walk on or drive on - I definitely recommend driving on as you’re gonna need a car on Orcas. The hour-ish ferry ride itself is absolutely beautiful, supposedly you can see pods of whales if you’re lucky but they always elude me. (I’m bitter.) No matter what you’re guaranteed lots of blue water and island spotting.
For those who don’t want to deal with the ferries, you can also book a seaplane via Kenmore Air. I’ve never done this option but it’s also a fairly popular one! Pricier than the ferry.
Our group of friends likes to camp at West Beach Resort, which is in Eastsound, about a 25 minute drive from the ferry dock. They offer classic campsites, cabins, and “tent cabins” (basically nice yurts) so there are options for everyone. Complete with sweeping waterfront views, a tasty little coffeeshop/cafe with outdoor seating, and rentals for kayaks, supboards, and more, West Beach has it all when it comes to beachy Orcas Island accommodations.
Eastsound is the main town on Orcas Island and while it’s small, it’s home to a tempting array of restaurants and bars. It’s also the home of the Summer Solstice Parade which makes for amazing people-watching and the most pumped-up Orcas Island Farmers Market of the season. (Yes, this is the kind of place where you can get amped af about the farmers market.)
What to do (& eat & drink!) in Eastsound
This is not an all-encompassing list of eeeeverything in the Eastsound area, but a handful of places I have personally experienced and enjoyed.
Obviously my #1 recommendation is going to be WINE. This gem is just outside the actual “town” area of Eastsound (but you have to remember this is a small island, so we’re talking a 5-10 minute drive). A charming barn, rolling green hills with plenty of outdoor seating, local snacks & goods, plus of course… fantastic wines! This summer I’m crushing on their natural wines, especially their Francalicious (a delightful Cab Franc Rosé pet-nat).
Brown Bear Baking
Extremely delicious pastries and breads by two bakers who classically french trained at the San Francisco Baking Institute. Nice big patio for outdoor seating. Victrola Coffee. This place often has a L-IIII-N-E so don’t come hangry.
The Orcas Project Tasting Room
An offshoot of the Doe Bay Wine Company, this tasting room features collaborations with talented winemakers plus beautiful labels designed by local artists. These wines are limited in production and generally only found on Orcas Island, so take advantage when you’re up here!
Mijitas
I’ve only done their lunch burrito (in Covid times, you order at the window to-go) and ate it on their lovely patio. I need to come back for full sit-down dinner service when the pandemic is over but I will say that their shrimp burrito was a revelation (especially when paired with one of their to-go margaritas - bless u, Mijitas).
White Horse Pub
Your classic Irish pub fare, plus fresh seafood, plus a beautiful waterfront location. Unfortunately no outside seating but a solid stop for a drink, bite, and view. This would be my top cozy “rainy day” spot.
The Lower Tavern
The Eastsound version of a dive bar, they boast “the best burgers in town” and they are pretty dang good - so are the onion rings, sweet potato fries, and any other bar food you might be craving. They have a sneakily nice and peaceful patio so it’s a solid choice for a beer on a sunny day.
Hogstone
One of my biggest regrets in life is that I have yet to visit Hogstone. Okay, not in life but in my Orcas Island life. They are said to have incredibly delicious wood-fired pizza and their entire wine list is comprised of natural wines.
New Leaf Cafe
Another tasty and elegant option for a meal in town! Inventive and fresh, they have a little bit of everything - salad, pasta, meat, more.
What to do (& eat & drink!) just outside of Eastsound
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm
One of my favorite places in the world (and no, I’m not exaggerating). Select and shuck your own oysters. Feast on dungeness crab, freshly smoked fish, steamed clams… any PNW seafood you can dream of, you’ll experience the best and freshest version of it here. They just opened their own little bar and cafe too, so you can enjoy local wine with your shellfish of choice. Everything about Buck Bay is the best, including the owners & staff, who are warm and friendly and more than happy to give you a sample of smoked cod or a hands-on demo of the perfect shucking method.
Rosario Resort
Technically an Eastsound address, but a bit further out of town on its own little spot on the island. I’ve had the good fortune of seeing not one, but two, of my best friends get married here - it’s a beautiful and magical place and I definitely recommend staying the night when/if you can, but even just an afternoon or evening of drinks and fish & chips on their patio is time well spent. Hint: I prefer their more casual patio dining option on the marina over The Mansion restaurant - both are delicious but I just always like a casual vibe… and to be as close to the water as possible ;)
Moran State Park
Shockingly here is one recommendation that doesn’t revolve around eating or imbibing. Moran State Park is bursting with natural beauty. On our last visit we did the lake loop hike which is easy enough for novices and tough enough for more experienced hikers/fitness fans to still feel accomplished. If you’re less picky than me you can swim in the lake, too. (Never say never but generally the water is too cold, I know I’m a total goldilocks when it comes to water temperature and I’ve learned to accept this about myself.) If you’re feeling especially ambitious you can hike to the top of Mount Constitution. Or hey, drive up to it as well. Keep in mind you need a Discover Pass, but if you don’t have one (which I do not) you can pay a one-time day-pass fee ($10) which is well worth it.
I would be remiss not to mention Doe Bay and its wildly popular Doe Bay Fest, but I’ll be honest: I’ve never actually been! I think the fest may be a bit too crunchy for me, personally. Although I did just write about getting amped up for the farmers market so I guess anything is possible. Regardless I do want to check out Doe Bay on one of my next journeys to Orcas!
This island is full of opportunities for exploration and relaxation… so while these are my top recommendations, there’s plenty more to discover! I can’t recommend Orcas Island enough and I’m always happy to give more advice or recs in the comments - or shoot me a note!